LONDON PARSEE MASTER CHEF CYRUS TODIWALLA, OBE DL DBA
Master chef Cyrus Todiwalla, OBE DL DBA, remains extremely affable and grounded in spite of the heavy titles bestowed upon him. For 16 years, the “adventurous gourmand” from Bandra has run Café Spice Namaste in London. Cyrus’s Navroze menu shuns the oft-eaten dhansak and patra ne machchi in favour of Murgh na tareala kebaab, machhi nay papeyte na pattice and murghi no bhujelo. On the eve of Parsi new year, he shares with us some of his personal favourites.
MASALA NU ROAST GOS
Ingredients: Lamb shank, 50 gm ginger, 50 gm garlic, 1 tsp. cumin, 1 tbs. coriander, 2-inch piece of cinnamon, 3-4 green cardamoms, 2-3 cloves, 3-4 peppercorns, 3 medium onions (chopped), 200 gm tomatoes (chopped), 2-3 tbs. sunflower oil, 1 tsp. salt, 12 small potatoes.
Method: Roast cumin and coriander on a low heat until they change colour slightly and let cool. Grind together ginger, garlic, roasted cumin and coriander to a fine paste. Peel potatoes, remove spots, and keep them soaked in water.
In a large casserole, heat oil until a light haze forms on the surface. Reduce the heat and add the lamb. Brown well on all sides. Remove the lamb and add the whole spices. Sauté for a minute or so on a low heat until the cloves swell a bit and deglaze the casserole with a little water to release the residue from the lamb stuck at the base. Scrape with a wooden spatula until the base is clean and add the chopped onions. Continue cooking until the liquid evaporates while sautéing the onions. Add the ground masala. Add water to release any stuck masala.
Continue cooking for five to six minutes and put the lamb back into the casserole. Coat it with the masala, check seasoning and add salt. Lower the heat , cover the pan and continue cooking.
Turn the meat after 10 minutes and check if the contents are burning at the base. If they are, add water or stock to loosen the contents at the bottom of the pan.
In another 15 minutes or so, add the chopped tomatoes and potatoes, and if necessary some water or stock. Cover and continue cooking for another 10-15 minutes.
When the lamb is done, remove it onto to tray. Set potatoes aside. Add water to the gravy if necessary. Serve the lamb sliced hot with the gravy and the potatoes.
MUTTON CANNON NI SEEKH BOTI
Ingredients:
• Marinade: 500 gm mutton (cut into 1-inch pieces), 1 tbs. minced ginger, 1 tbs. minced garlic, ½ tsp. turmeric, 2 tsp. dhania, 1 tsp. cumin, 1 tsp. chilli powder, ½ tsp. garam masala, 1 tbs. lemon juice.
• Kebabs: 110 to 150 ml vegetable oil, 1 large green chilli (finely chopped), 1 tsp. chopped ginger, 2 garlic cloves (chopped), 1 tbs. chopped fresh coriander, 2 eggs, salt, 3 to 4 tbs. plain flour.
Preparation: Mix all the ingredients of the marinade in a bowl. Set aside for two to three hours at room temperature, then transfer to the fridge for five to six hours.
Heat two tablespoons of the oil in a pot until smoking. Add marinated mutton in batches; fry until brown. Remove pan from the heat and stir in chill, ginger, garlic and coriander. Set aside to cool. Beat the eggs with a pinch of salt. Sprinkle flour on a plate. Skewer the mutton pieces and dredge in the flour, dip into the beaten egg.
Carefully deep fry kebabs until golden-brown. Serve with salad.
Parsee Pav Makhan NU pudding
Ingredients: 2 L whole milk, 150 to 200 gm sugar, 8 eggs, 5-6 slices bread, 1/2 tsp. vanilla extract, 12-15 almonds (sliced), 1 heaped tbs. dates, 1 tbs. charoli or pistachio, 1 1/2 tbs. mixed dry fruits (chopped), 1 1/2 tbs. rose water, 1/2 tsp. nutmeg powder, 1/2 tsps cardamom powder
Method: Bring the milk to a boil and then reduce the flame. Let it simmer gently for an hour and a half. Keep the sides clean using a wet brush or rubber spatula. With a wooden spatula, scrape the bottom to prevent milk from burning.
Beat egg and sugar together until light and foamy. Cool the reduced milk slightly. Pour milk gradually into the egg mix, whisking all the time and for a minute after. Strain the mixture if needed. Add rose water, vanilla essence, cardamom and nutmeg powders.
Apply butter to a baking dish with a brush. Sprinkle sugar liberally to coat the entire dish well. Butter both sides of the bread slices and arrange at the bottom of the dish, trimming edges to fit.
Sprinkle a layer of dates and dry fruits. Place remaining bread over it and pour the egg-milk mix. Let it rest for an hour. Sprinkle sliced almonds and charoli/ pistachios on top and bake in a moderately heated oven.
When the top turns golden and crisp, turn off the oven but let the pudding sit on the grill. Poke a knife and if it comes out clean, the pudding is done. Served warm or cold with fresh cream.
Cooking tips
• Even dried spices lose their flavour, so all your ingredients should be refrigerated. The constant steady temperature prevents them from oxidising and deteriorating.
• When adding spices, add a little water to the pan to help cool it sufficiently to prevent the powders from burning. This also allows the pan to deglaze and keeps the bottom free of residue. The water also helps to bring out the flavours.
• Except when frying the spices to begin the cooking process, or frying mustard seeds, it's best to start the dish on a medium heat.
• Dish too oily? Add a little chickpea or gram flour to help absorb the oil and thicken the gravy.
• When cooking with okra, add a spoonful of yoghurt. This prevents the okra from sticking, burning or becoming gooey.
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